I always wanted a colored LED globe. The Ambient Orb device is such a globe, but with proprietary technology. I wanted to build my own, so that I can create my own light programs, tweak it, and learn some general things.
I want my "Ambient Orb" to have the following properties:
- High brightness
- IR remote controllable
- Computer controllable
- Respond to surrounding light
For now the computer interface will be provided through a micro controller and an IR transmitter diode. Different solutions would involve RF modules, utilizing plain 433/868/900 Mhz radio, ZigBee, Bluetooth or similar. Integrated modules exist, but development is time consuming.
IR transmission only requires a single integrated 38 kHz IR receiver module which goes for a few bucks. To send data to the orb, a simple "pod" will be constructed, containing one or more matching IR LEDs as required. A micro controller will receive commands via an USB connection and send a modulated 38 kHz signals to the orb. This means only the orbs in the same room as the computer/pod can be controlled. Possible uses for the computer interface:
- Using as a "Poor Man's Ambilight"
- Creating a colorful audio visualization plugin for WMP or WinAmp
- Creating a PC GUI to set up light programs
- Displaying messenger and mail notifications by color
- Displaying network/CPU/power status by color
- Displaying the weather forecast, stock market, Homeland Security threat level...
To be able to control multiple orbs independently of each other, an address switch will be included. More than 16 orbs per room would be overkill, and this switch only takes 4 pins of the micro controller.
Each orb in the room would get a different address assigned, so that each on them can be controlled individually. This approach would even work with simple non-bidirectional RF modules.
Respond to outside lighting
Another special feature will be the possibility for the orb to respond to the outside lighting condition. For this, a color and brightness sensor will be mounted inside. The LEDs will be switched off for a short amount of time, then the sensor will measure the current lighting. Based on this, the micro controller will adjust the brightness and the color of the illumination. While this is a nice effect ("display the same color and brightness currently in the room"), it is also necessary because of the high brightness I want to archive with the orb. The full power level may be right at daytime, but it could be much too bright in the evening or at night.
It would also be possible to integrate temperature, humidity, air pressure and sound sensors. This way the orb could show many different information without a computer. But I don't want to overdo it at the first shot.
Yesterday I went to IKEA and got myself a nice FADO Table lamp. I actually picked up two so I could crash one, or simply build a second orb. The lamp is very cheap, but the cover is made out of mouth blown glass, and no diffusers are needed because the glass is so milky colored.
The base is made of polypropylene and contains a socket for a bulb. I cut away the socket, so I could mount a small breadboard on top of the remaining base, inside the orb.
A short ribbon cable connects the small breadboard inside the lamp to a larger one at the outside, where I can play with different resistors and measure the current flow with a multimeter.
I started with a single RGB LED, and quickly increased this to about 10 LEDs. Each LED allows for up to 30 mA to flow through each color, but even with 10 LEDs, I didn't find the result to be satisfying. This means I will have to order something more powerful to drive the orb.
I also tested the IR receiver component, which works fine inside the orb. The receiver can be oriented in any direction, because the lamp cover will spread the IR light evenly. You simply point the IR remote to the orb, and no matter if the receiver faces you or not, the signals will be visible on the oscilloscope.
Increasing light output
To increase the light output, there are a few different light emitters available. The current RGB LEDs allow ~100 mW per color and LED. Having a red, a green and a blue LUXEON™ at 3 Watts each will thus give plenty of brightness. But having three different emitters placed in the orb bears the risk of having different colored shades visible from the outside. Thus a better approach would be to use one integrated package, possibly with multiple light emitters and an integrated heatsink, which is necessary at high power levels.
Thermal management is a big issue for high-power LEDs. While they have higher efficiency, are usually driven by lower powers and thus do not dissipate as much heat as incandescent bulbs, they also do not tolerate high temperatures.
They also exhibit an inverse temperature/conductivity behavior. They have a negative temperature coefficient, which means when the temperature increases, they allow more power to flow through them. Bulbs have a positive temperature coefficient, which means the higher the temperature, the higher the resistance, thus the lower the current that can flow through them. This prevents bulbs from getting too much current. The inverse behavior, which is a common feature of all semiconductors, means you have to watch the temperature and current carefully, because it can quickly lead to destruction. LEDs also get less efficient at higher temperatures, while incandescent bulbs have increased efficiency because more of the emitted light shifts into the visible spectrum. At low temperatures all they emit is infrared light.